Bistro Voliere

Bistro Volière is jammed into The George in St Kilda, a hulking classical building that looks like it’s seen better centuries. On a rainy day it resembles a Parisian dungeon where poets drink, detectives brood, and nobody asks questions because they already know the answers, and don’t like them. Perfect. We started with wine, because anything else would’ve been uncivilised. The Picpoul was golden and crisp, bright enough to wake the dead, refreshing enough that someone else finished it before I could form an emotional attachment. Then a Rhône Pinot, clever but not clever-clever, it had body, manners, and knew when to stop talking. Unlike some people. The oysters were fresh and served simply with balsamic vinegar, which gave them bite and a little attitude, oysters with a criminal record. The foie gras was underwhelming but tasty, which is French for ‘we tried, now let’s move on.’ It didn’t soar, it didn’t collapse, it merely existed, like a bored aristocrat. The fish of the day, a dory, was filleted with skill and flavoured modestly; provincial, restrained, and uninterested in impressing anyone under 40. Le Cordon Bleu, however, was proper blue-ribbon stuff, crisp, indulgent, and easily the best I’ve had this week. No reinterpretation, no nonsense, no apology. The French sausages, served at room temperature with cornichons, were excellent, quietly delicious, like something you’d eat standing at a zinc bar while plotting your escape from society. The service was very good, smiling, alert, swapping bottled water at exactly the right moment, which is harder than it sounds and rarer than foie gras that tries. The Crêpes Suzette arrived last and were ceremoniously set on fire, which is always reassuring in a French restaurant, if nothing is flambéed, someone, somewhere, has clearly failed. As the flames rose, our host winked at me and announced, ‘It has alcool, ah!’ in that unmistakable accent, as if I were moments away from operating heavy machinery after dessert. Perhaps this was a public-safety warning. Or perhaps it was for the ten-year-old at the table. Either way, the message was clear: eat responsibly, but dramatically. The flames leapt theatrically, the orange perfume hit the table, and for a brief moment I thought the waiter might set himself alight out of professional pride. The crêpes themselves were silky, buttery, properly soaked in boozy citrus, and utterly unapologetic about it. This was dessert with intent; dramatic, indulgent, and smugly traditional, like it had survived three revolutions and refused to modernise. The crème brûlée was equally superb and mercifully un-messed-with. A proper crack on the sugar, not a polite tap, but a satisfying shatter that lets you know you’re in capable hands. Underneath, the custard was smooth, rich, and calm, as if it had been waiting its whole life for that moment. No foam, no philosophy, no nonsense. Just a classic done properly, which these days feels almost rebellious. This isn’t French dining for influencers. It’s French dining for people who don’t care if the wallpaper judges them. Not pretentious, just French the way locals are French, slightly grim, quietly indulgent, and unapologetically themselves. It was raining outside. The place glowed dimly inside. I loved it, and I don’t say that lightly.

- Baggage Claim Philosopher -

Enjoyed our lunch here! Ordered beef tartar (nice not mind blowing!), escargots, beef bourginon and steak were amazing. Chocolate fondant was yummy and lemon curd tartlet nice but not mind blowing. Come back for sure. Oh yeah - fries were superb too! Great service and location too.

- R M -

I had the gravlax salmon and the porter house steak with a few espresso martini cocktails , and crème burlee for dessert,, was delicious and the window seating in the old George building looking over Fitzroy street added to the night ,, I recommend this place for sure ,, good value

- Derek Glaubitz -